25mm Axial Heat Coil (90 Degree Neck)

25mm Axial Heat Coil (Straight Style)

Your e-nail and/or coil may malfunction dangerously if the wiring order is not confirmed to match! Many e-nail controllers are wired differently (even though they may look like they match). If you are unsure, I can help you find out. Please check this quick guide first.

  • 25mm axial barrel style banger heat coil
  • 90 degree bend on neck
  • 150W/120V
  • XLR 5-pin connector
  • K-type TC’s
  • Kevlar cord sheath is rip and shear resistant
  • NON-STANDARD WIRING ORDER: pin1=TC+, pin2=TC-, pin3=Ground, pin4=AC load, pin5=AC load
  • (Custom re-wiring available — $10.99 option below
  • Coil wraps around the bottom for lower surface heating


Availability: In stock

  • Options Price: $0.00
  • Product Price: $39.99
  • Total: $0.00

What does the “axial” part mean in your 25mm e-nail axial coil?

You may be wondering what the definition of “axial” is regarding e-nail heat coils. Axial simply means “round” or formed around a central axis with a 25mm inner-diameter. The term 25mm e-nail axial coil is used mainly because it sounds cooler than barrel style and because everyone else seems to like it. “Axial” is simply a buzz-word, much like the term “organic”.

The term axial e-nail coil does not fully describe the intended difference in functionality vs. a standard barrel coil. The banger coils that we all commonly refer to as axial are not just round coils, but have a specialized form. This form is essentially a hybrid which combines a barrel coil with a flat coil. The difference between a e-nail heat coil that is labeled “axial” and one that is labeled “barrel” has come to be that the “axial” coils have bottom-heating as well as side-wall heating. You will notice that the coil is wound with extra loops which (mostly) close near the bottom.

What’s the big advantage? Why should I upgrade from a standard barrel coil?

By spiraling inwards towards the bottom of the banger, these extra loops also distribute heat to the bottom of the banger surface. This allows for a more evenly-heated dab surface and reduces unintentional pooling and/or waste that may occur if the dab is heated too short or too long. Compared to an original, standard 20mm banger coil, a 25mm axial coil will get you that extra little bit of wiggle room too drop in larger dabs. The larger surface area also helps you get even and complete heating to the product all at once, and again avoid unintentional waste or over-heated dabs.

Consider the type as well as the size of heat coil. Those that own an e-banger or are thinking about switching from a torch to electric will find it worth making sure they get the right setup for their needs. Typical barrel style coils leave the bottom surface cooler than the side walls. Flat coils leave the side walls un-heated. The axial coil swiftly combines to get two birds stoned at once, because who does’t love that?

Best of Both Worlds

Increasing the temperatures and avoiding the side walls with your tool may help to compensate; but often times this leads to an excess carbon buildup as the dab climbs towards the cooler areas. On the side walls of your banger you may find black stains which seem to “soak into the pores” of the quartz and forever evade all cleaning efforts. Concentrate which does not get quite hot enough to look like something to clean. It gets easy to miss with the q-tipper and before you know it, you have crusty quartz. That’s why people are so vigilant about q-tipping, because if you do not remove this leftover residue, it will eventually dry and crust over. The bottom line is that it’s just plain easier and more efficient to let the heat travel upwards to the dab. Heating the side walls only is more indirect and therefore somewhat inefficient.

Top reasons for eventual coil failure:

  • failed thermocouple (#1)
  • excessive/repeated bending/twisting of wires
  • broken solder connections
  • loose and bent XLR connection (plug)
  • excessive moisture contracting the coil
  • residue buildup near the seams– towards the fabric “sheath”
  • residue buildup at any other electrical connection (not as likely)
  • an exceptional amount of forceful plugging and plugging in of the cable — wearing down the terminals (not likely)
  • “thermal shock” (gradual wear)
  • Just getting generally nasty look due to white residue buildup after some time

Take care to avoid sharp and/or stressful bending of the the cable, coil, or plug parts. Your 20mm heat coil replacement should work for years to come if proper care is taken. Take care not to break the thermocouple layer in the middle of the coil if bending for better fitment. Only bend slightly and in small increments. The thermocouple sensor is situated somewhat like a twinky inside the coil, or sushi roll. The inner layers could be compromised with forceful bending. You would see the ring-like layers inside if you made a cut straight across.

It all comes down to your own user preferences, as some strive to maximize every drop, while some strive to keep a clean and maintainable dab surface. It is a fine balance between the two that each must find for themselves on this “dab-venture” called life (:

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