20mm Heat Coil Replacement (Axial Banger Style Coil)
20mm Heat Coil Replacement (Axial Banger Style Coil):
Your e-nail and/or coil may malfunction dangerously if the wiring order is not confirmed to match! Many e-nail controllers are wired differently (even though they look like they might match). I will definitely help you find out if unsure about it. Read this for more info.
- Coil wraps around the bottom, therefore providing more direct radiant heating
- 100W/120V coil
- XLR 5-pin connector
- K-type TC’s
- Kevlar cord sheath is rip and shear resistant
- See the wiring order of this coil: pin1=AC, pin2=AC, pin3=TC+, pin4=TC-, pin5=GND
Availability: In stock
20mm Heat Coil
Even though 25 and 30mm are the latest rage, still a lot of the more moderate dabbers out there still prefer the good ol’ 20mm banger. They work well for smaller dabs; which get even smaller if you use an insert and/or pearls. Switch from a barrel style to an axial style coil and see the difference in temperature adjustments. I have 20mm axial heat coils which fit my bangers just a little bit of looseness to err on the safe side. Sadly, some of the premium banger inserts do not fit the inner diameter, although there are vape atomizer inserts that would work as a “hack”. An e-banger heat coil that has bottom-heating ability is a key piece of gear that gives you more temperature coverage across the vaping surface of your e-banger.
Consider the type as well as the size of heat coil. Those that own an e-banger or are thinking about switching from a torch to electric will find it worth making sure they get the right setup for their needs. Typical barrel style coils leave the bottom surface cooler than the side walls. Flat coils leave the side walls un-heated. The axial coil swiftly combines to get two birds stoned at once, because who does’t love that?
Best of Both Worlds
Increasing the temperatures and avoiding the side walls with your tool may help to compensate; but often times this leads to an excess carbon buildup as the dab climbs towards the cooler areas. On the side walls of your banger you may find black stains which seem to “soak into the pores” of the quartz and forever evade all cleaning efforts. Concentrate which does not get quite hot enough to look like something to clean. It gets easy to miss with the q-tipper and before you know it, you have crusty quartz. That’s why people are so vigilant about q-tipping, because if you do not remove this leftover residue, it will eventually dry and crust over. The bottom line is that it’s just plain easier and more efficient to let the heat travel upwards to the dab. Heating the side walls only is more indirect and therefore somewhat inefficient.
Top reasons for eventual coil failure:
- failed thermocouple (#1)
- excessive/repeated bending/twisting of wires
- broken solder connections
- loose and bent XLR connection (plug)
- excessive moisture contracting the coil
- residue buildup near the seams– towards the fabric “sheath”
- residue buildup at any other electrical connection (not as likely)
- an exceptional amount of forceful plugging and plugging in of the cable — wearing down the terminals (not likely)
- “thermal shock” (gradual wear)
- Just getting generally nasty look due to white residue buildup after some time
Take care to avoid sharp and/or stressful bending of the the cable, coil, or plug parts. Your 20mm heat coil replacement should work for years to come if proper care is taken. Take care not to break the thermocouple layer in the middle of the coil if bending for better fitment. Only bend slightly and in small increments. The thermocouple sensor is situated somewhat like a twinky inside the coil, or sushi roll. The inner layers could be compromised with forceful bending. You would see the ring-like layers inside if you made a cut straight across.